Growing Trend. Maracuja Oil as Conditioner ?

Kerry Toscano

Maracuja oil, a super-hydrating and deeply restorative oil derived from yellow passionfruit (you may also see it listed as passionfruit seed oil, passionfruit oil, or passion flower oil). Typically sourced from South American rainforests, this powerhouse ingredient offers far more than the hydration of refreshing waterfall showers. It is packed with dense nutrients and vitamins.

What is Passion Fruit Oil ?
Derived from yellow passionfruit, maracuja oil is a hair and skincare ingredient packed with omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, vitamins A, E, and F, and a host of other beneficial antioxidants. Alone, it’s usually a golden-hued oil with a natural fruity fragrance—though it's often combined with other ingredients in conditioning and strengthening products.

Because of its nutritious profile and hydrating properties, maracuja oil has the potential to fortify our hair structure’s natural lipids and prevent breakage and split ends, making for softer, smoother, and healthier hair overall.

Benefits of Maracuja Oil for Hair


Hydrates and conditions: Vitamins A, F, and E are all great hydrators for dry or damaged hair types. They’re also great conditioning agents, which means softer, smoother hair. It’s also light to the touch and non-greasy, so it makes hair glossy.


Strengthens and nourishes: Vitamin F is an essential fatty acid made up of omega-3 and omega-6 that can bind to damaged hair follicles and fortify them (hair lipids are naturally composed of about 85% saturated and unsaturated fatty acids). It's also an emollient, meaning it locks in moisture and nutrients.


Protects against damage and environmental aggressors: Vitamin E is an antioxidant, which may help to reduce stress from free radicals or pollution, which ultimately can prevent breakage.


Scalp support: Because of its comparatively high content of Vitamin E and Vitamin F, Maracuja oil could be great for conditioning and scalp health. Clean cosmetic chemist Krupa Koestline. Hu agrees and adds that the hydrating properties could also help soothe dry, irritated scalps. And while no product will magically stimulate hair growth, a healthy scalp can provide the best possible environment for growth.

 

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The Salon Trendy Word Dictionary for 2023

Kerry Toscano

1. The Butterfly Cut
The butterfly cut was the curtain bang epidemic circa 2021! EVERYONE was flooding in with requests, tutorials and how-to’s on achieving this mega-volume layered haircut.

2. Bronde Hair Color
Bronde? It’s just what it sounds like—brown plus blonde! The cool thing about this trend was the pearlescent shine that every “bronde” girl on TikTok had in their hair. The variation of the color trend was super customizable and had a ton of loyal blondies take a peek to the dark(er) side.

3. Slicked-Back Buns
This trend took a ton of clients out of their comfort zone in the BEST way. Slicked-back looks completely took over any trendy styling inspo we covered this year. The small spikes of hair poking out of the styled bun made this look a super chic rendition of traditionally “ballerina” looking styles.

 

4. Expensive Brunette
The trend that had blonding experts shaking—expensive brunette took OVER social and had every client convinced they were going darker. Nearly every celebrity and influencer went all-over brunette early this year and the trend escalated through the winter months.

5. The Mixie
We saw the bixie, the classic pixie and the mullet last year. But THIS year—we met the Mixie. The mullet and pixie hybrid took key elements of both looks and combined them to make the shabby-chic showstopper of 2022.

6. Teddy Bear Blonde
The newest on our urban dictionary list of 2022 is a sweet surprise, teddy bear blonde. The deep, golden hues of this trend make it super easy to bring any blonde client lower or any brunette client higher in tonal ranges to create a custom teddy bear blonde.

7. The Bottleneck Bob
Fall’s biggest haircut trend was the bottleneck bob—the pinched look that took over IG. The bottleneck aspect came from the unique construction of the bob with fringe that pokes upwards and blends into a heavy perimeter.

8. Retro Blowouts
Every year we see a voluminous look cycle through the buzzword list, but this year took a retro spin. The resurgence of heavily layered cuts was mostly to thank for these structured (dare we say fluffy?) blowouts clients LOVED.

9. Copper Penny Hair Color
Redheads reigned supreme this year—every shade, every texture and every tone. The copper takeover started back in the spring when celebs unexpectedly traded in their signature looks for copper shades. Soon enough, everyone was on the red train in their own unique way.

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Source: Behind the Chair

 

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Netflix’s “Wednesday” Fringe Hair Trend

Kerry Toscano

2023 will be the official year of THE FRINGE—in all different shapes and sizes. For winter, we’re seeing an influx of Netflix’s “Wednesday”-inspired fringe, curtain bangs, piecey texture and eye-sweeping lengths.

Fringe was already huge in 2022:

So be ready to be asked for this style!

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The Curly Copper Color Block

Kerry Toscano

Color block, when referring to hair coloring, is typically a cream or gel which can be applied to skin or hair to prevent hair dye from staining those areas. This is also commonly referred to as barrier cream and is generally applied around the hair line so if dye does happen to touch the skin, it will not stain it. The use of color block is very common in most hair salons.

Hair color can easily stain the skin and create a very messy and unprofessional look to any color job. Beyond this, most hair dyes contain harsh chemicals which should not come in direct contact with the sensitive skin of the face. Using a color block cream will protect the integrity of the color job as well as protect the skin from irritation. Another common use for barrier cream is in two-tone dye jobs. When a stylist is dying a customer’s hair with two different colors, as in highlight or “chunky” dye styles, he or she may use a color block cream to keep the two colors from bleeding in to each other.

2022 Has been the year for copper hair color! What if your client wants to pair it with a bold color block? 

Who is the ideal client for this look?
Any client with a starting Level 4. This transformation begins with a global bleach-out: A darker starting level would mean an extra lightening process (if the hair can handle it!).

What can clients expect?

The entire transformation will take eight hours—not an easy task! That includes a full bleach-out, two different glazes to create the color block.

How can clients care for this look?
When it comes to at-home care, it’s always best to use cool water when washing color-treated hair. This will increase the longevity of the color along with a color-safe shampoo! As far as maintenance goes, recomment clients to visit the salon in six-to-eight weeks to upkeep this look.

 

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Tips for Handling Fine Hair

Kerry Toscano

Not every appointment is going to be like the thick-locked mannequins that got us through beauty school. Fine hair will always make up a generous portion of our clientele, but it’s hard to know how to approach coloring, cutting (anything!) unless you know what you’re working with. Keep scrolling to learn the ins and outs of caring for fine hair—and how to send these clients off feeling their very best.

1. Know the difference between fine and thin hair.
“Fine” and “thin” are sometimes used interchangeably but the two are actually very different:

Fine hair is all about the thickness of each individual hair follicle—not the exact number of hairs on a client’s head. When a client’s hair is fine, it’s fine for life.

Thin hair is often attributed to overall hair loss caused by androgenetic alopecia, stress, pregnancy or tight hairstyling. Thinning can be reversed or treated with specialized products.

2. When lightening fine hair, create more solid pieces for the brightest result.
Regular highlights don’t cut it on fine hair because it can easily appear over-foiled. Instead, take larger, more solid pieces to make the end result appear brighter. Prep the hair with a protective shampoo and conditioner to ensure the fine hair isn’t damaged. Take larger weaves when sectioning for thicker-looking highlights. Thoroughly saturate each weave for the strongest POP of brightness.

3. Use a texturizing spray to add body and volume to hair of any length.
A dry finishing spray adds instant volume PLUS the perfectly imperfect texture we’re crazy about. Just puff onto roots for on-the-spot lift and texture, then evenly distribute throughout.


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Source: Behind the Chair

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Cutting Tips & Tricks to improve your Bob Cut Technique

Kerry Toscano

Cutting Tips & Tricks to improve your Bob Cut Technique

1. Prep the hair with a reliable cutting aid

You will want to use a good cutting aid for bob cuts and all of your haircuts. Cutting aids are essential for clean, precise haircuts. A product that fights breakage while you cuts with ease is advised. 

2. Rest the shears on the neck & glide out
Gently cut along the nape, careful to hold your shears at zero elevation to avoid nicks. A Point Cut six inch Scissors to reach small areas behind the ears and around the face is adviced.

3. Revisit each section with a softer point cut to add diffusion.

This simple tip blends the hair for a more seamless grow-out while adding subtle volume.

4. Build shape & dimension with shorter point cuts
Point cut each section, leaving each section longer as you cut away from the nape. This will help tailor a more angled, dimensional result. Point cutting also helps preserve length, but with much more structure and movement.

5. Point cut on each final section to refine
When you reach the final section on either side, point cut using a wide tooth comb as your guide.

 

 

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4 Hair Color Consulation Questions you Must ask!

Kerry Toscano

Your next customer should be asked this 4 key questions (on top of the ones you usually like to ask) before attempting anything color for their hair.

What is the history of your hair?

The most crucial query you should elicit from your clientele before providing any color services. Proper lift, predicting damage, and determining whether the desired outcome is attainable all depend on the hair history.

How far back in time should they go with their hair? Depending on the length. Do not only consider their most recent color appointment, particularly if they have lengthy hair. The longer the hair, the further back in time they should consider their hair history.

Have you got the money and the time?

To get the blonde clients want, it could take a few blonding sessions. They will probably need to be elevated through several tones, including red, orange, and yellow, depending on their starting canvas. Therefore, ensuring that your client has the time and resources for several appointments will ensure that they always leave satisfied (and with healthy hair!).

Do you have an reference photo?

Always, always ask the client if they have an inspiration photo. Artists are creative and your idea of beige might not be the same tone of beige your client has in mind, so photos really help avoid confusion and disappointment.

How do you style yourself?

Always aim to produce a color that makes your client feel lovely and at ease. The following are the top three queries to ask clients regarding their at-home styling routine:

What hair care products do you use at home?
What style methods and tools do you employ daily on your hair?
Are you able to keep up with the upkeep?

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Level Up your Hair Game Class

Kerry Toscano

WHY TUTTO? FIERCE FORMULATIONS GRaY COVERAGE + TIPS AND TRICKS how RECESSION & INFLATION is impacting beauty salons. HOW DO WE SURVIVE AND GROW.

WITH LISA KELLEY.  Lisa brings this Master Class that has changed the lives of salon owners, stylists and booth renters across the country for over 15 years.

Sunday, Nov 6th. St. Louis, Mid America Beauty Supply 221 Old Meramec Station, Rd. Ballwin, MO, Ballwin Missouri 63021, United States.

TICKET $25 10:00 am to 2:00 pm. Light Lunch Included. 888-877-6227

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Trend Alert! THE BOTTLENECK Bob is here.

Kerry Toscano

That's exactly what it sounds like. Imagine a retro-style Coca-Cola bottle. The bob shape starts with a pinched fringe and transitions to blunt layers at both ends.The neck of the bottle becomes fully customizable, depending on your choice of soft, curved fringe or a crisper fringe. .


Bob cut users are likely to be the first to jump on this trend, so we're going to make it a little easier. Bob expert Chris Jones (@chrisjones_hair) says the easiest way to give a bob a hairy look (like a bottleneck) is to add a curtain bun. ,is a great way to break up hard lines on the face,” says Chris.

THE BOTTLENECK Bob

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Stop OVER-FOILING Brunettes with this Hacks!

Kerry Toscano

Create the perfect expensive brunette with efficient foiling

Move over blondies! The expensive brunette is officially the HOTTEST hair color trend of the year and you can create it with just 25 purposefully placed foils. Keep reading for some easy-to-follow highlighting tips for creating pops of dimension and luxe color on her brunette clients without lifting too far into blonde territory.

Decide the warmth before formulating

Since the goal is to add warmth to the hair, it needs to be lifted to a Level 7 or 8 that stays under the brunette umbrella. Use a lower volume developer to help achieve the desired shade and ease the toning process.

Place and paint each foil with a specific purpose in mind

When it comes to getting an expensive brunette result in just 25 foils, each foil must be placed meaningfully and cohesively. To do this:

Add lightener to the front sections and money piece first. Not only do these areas have the greatest impact, but they also need to be the brightest to give an expensive brunette a cohesive, vibrant look. Painting these sections first also allows them to process while other foils are being applied.

Utilizing tip-outs to bring each section together without having to over-paint at the roots or ends. Keep the weave tiny and super fine so there aren’t any unblended lines of demarcation, and to feather the lightener up so you don’t need to worry about correcting it later.

Sectioning off a “mohawk” at the top of the head. This section is designed to create even pops of brightness on either side of the head, giving the client versatility with their part.

The balayage board

Using a Balayage board can completely change the way you color hair. By using it, it becomes much easier to create soft blends on hair and the looks that you are after. Having a hard surface to paint against changes everything. You can really get a precision blend, get way more exact on where the color is ending up and you can get great saturation with a board.

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